“Patriotism is, fundamentally, a conviction that a particular country is the best in the world because you were born in it….”
― George Bernard Shaw
Day 182, Tuesday, July 23, 2019
Sites Covered in this Post
- Garinish Island
- Eightercua Stone Row
- Rock of Cashel
Lesson Learned: The weather in Ireland in the summer is amazing. France and England have both been suffering from scorching hot seasons, the US is being slow roasted with regular bouts of 100 degree temps, but Ireland is a pretty constant 65 to 70 degrees every day. True, it rains a lot (sort of like Seattle) but never hard, and not constantly throughout the day. I’d hate it if I were here to visit the beach, but since I’m more likely to be hiking or wandering through castles and museums we love the weather. The sun rises at about 4:30 and goes down after 10 at night, but I can handle that. I do know that in the winter, I’d hate it since they don’t have but 6 hours or so of daylight a day, but I shan’t be here then. If you are tired of frying eggs on the sidewalk, hop on over here to this green paradise. They hang flower pots on the light posts and they last all summer. Try that in Texas and see how long those petunias last.
Garinish Island
Garnish Island (Garinish Island to the locals) is world renowned for its gardens which are laid out in beautiful walks and it has some stunning specimen plants which are rare in this climate. We came across plants that we were amazed that could be supported by the garden. The Gardens comprised of a number of features all of which a nestled within the protection of the woodlands which were planted 100 years ago. This shelter, combined with the effects of the gulf stream and the unique configuration of Glengarriff Harbor results in a unique micro climate in which an amazing range of exotic species flourish.
In 1910 Scottish businessman John Annan Bryce bought the island to turn it into one of the great gardens of Western Europe. Bryce was driven by the idea of building a substantial residence on top of the island – and he was driven by his wife Violet L’Estrange – a woman who sympathized with the ideas of women’s liberation and of an independent Ireland. Once you see this place you may wonder why they ever left. While Annan Bryce and his genius garden architect Harold Peto have been praised throughout the decades over and over again, very little is said about the impact of his wife, Violet Bryce on the development of the garden. Due to the fact that mainly men have written and interpreted the history of Ireland so far, women were mostly left in the dark of past times. So, as usual, women get shit on by being totally disregarded, no matter the impact they had on events. This is strange to me considering the magnificent reigns of Queen Elizabeth I and Queen Victoria. Have no doubts, Violet was a driving force in the development of the garden. I also wonder why these two ladies, and Violet didn’t kick more men in the balls for under-representing the contributions of women.
To get out to the island we took the Garnish Island Ferry from Glengarriff Pier to visit this amazing island garden. The very sheltered ferry trip includes a wonderful visit to seal island where you will visit the very tame seal colony. We really enjoyed the seals. They didn’t let us get real close, but they were also not too disturbed by the boats. Its amazing how many of the animals were found inside the harbor.
The island was bequeathed to the Irish people in 1953, and was subsequently entrusted to the care of the Commissioners of Public Works. On the island there is also a Martello tower on its southern shores which dates back to the 17th century. There is an amazing view of the bay from the battlements of the tower.
Eightercua Stone Row
Driving along the Wild Atlantic Way on the right hand (other side from the ocean) side there is a famous stone row. The stone row at Eightercua was certainly one of the most impressive sites we visited on our trip through West Cork as we headed to Kerry. While driving down the road just soaking in the beautiful countryside we whizzed by the stones, visible on the horizon over the road. There were no signs, and it didn’t show up on the GPS map as we motored along.
Once seen, we drove along slowly until we found a way up a narrow road to get to the monolith. Its located next to a golf course, and the locals certainly don’t encourage visitors to stop and take a look. There is no parking lot, so you have to park as best you can without blocking the driveway to the several houses next to the field where the monument stands. In fact, there is a sign out front cautioning people that a bull is fenced in the area with the monolith. We found no livestock, but I was willing to chance that anyway.
The row is aligned in an ENE-WSW direction with four stones aligned with the September Solstice and is about 7.5 meters (25 ft) in length. The tallest of the stones is 2.7 meters high. There is evidence of a horseshoe shaped enclosure stretching out from the end stones in a southerly direction. It is presumed that this may have been a ritual site dating back to 1900 to 1700 BCE.
The diameter of the enclosure is about 15 meters and may have had a low wall around the perimeter. There is also another low slab running to the south at a right angle to the row, which is thought to have formed part of a cist or part of a support for an altar.
Folklore: In Irish Mythology it is said to be the burial place of Scéine, wife of a Bard and Judge of the Milesian invaders, Amergin mac Míled. She died as the Milesians invaded Ireland. The Milesians, said to be the last of the mythical invaders to Ireland, settled the area around in 1900 BCE and reportedly left behind many of the archaeological sites found in the area.
The Milesians (Irish: gairthear Mílidh Easpáinne) are the final race to settle in Ireland. They represent the Irish people (which I suppose means they were very prolific and raped, married, and populated the island with their prodigy. The Milesians are Gaels who sail to Ireland from Hispania after spending hundreds of years travelling the earth.
This place is as full of myth and legend as Greece. Legend has it that when they land in Ireland they contended with the Tuatha Dé Danann, who represent the pagan gods. The two groups agree to divide Ireland between them: the Milesians take the world above, while the Tuath Dé take the world below (i.e. the Otherworld). Scholars believe that the tale is mostly an invention of medieval Christian writers. That figures, just look at the Old Testament to see what kind of fairy tales early Christians could cook up.
The Lebor Gabála, which was written in the 11th century CE by Christian monks, purports to be a history of Ireland and the Irish (the Gaels). Don’t you just love fantasy stories?, it tells us that all mankind is descended from Adam through the sons of Noah, and that a Scythian king named Fénius Farsaid (descendant of Noah’s son Japheth) is the forebear of the Gaels. Fénius, a prince of Scythia, is described as one of 72 chieftains who built the Tower of Babel. His son Nel weds Scota, daughter of an Egyptian pharaoh, and they have a son named Goídel Glas. Goídel crafts the Goidelic (Gaelic) language from the original 72 languages that arose after the confusion of tongues. Goídel’s offspring, the Goidels (Gaels), leave Egypt at the same time as the Israelites (the Exodus) and settle in Scythia (I guess all could tell that global warming was on its way and that Egypt was destined to become a desert). If this is true, Moses was stupid and got lost looking for Israel, and Goídel was smarter going to Ireland, but would have been brilliant if he’d gone to Brittan instead.
The Gaels must have been even worse than Moses at navigation because after they leave Scythia they spent 440 years wandering the Earth, undergoing a series of trials and tribulations akin to those of the Israelites, who spent 40 years wandering in the wilderness. Eventually, they reach Hispania by sea and conquer it. There, Goídel’s descendant Breogán founds a city called Brigantia, and builds a tower from the top of which his son Íth glimpses Ireland. Brigantia refers to Corunna in modern-day Galicia, in Spain, (which was then known as Brigantium) and Breogán’s tower is likely based on the Tower of Hercules, which was built at Corunna by the Romans. This paragraph has more new names in it that the first chapter of Lord of the Rings.
All I’m sure of is the rocks are worth pulling off the road to spend an hour or so tromping through the lush green grassy field to see these stones close up. Just keep your eyes peeled for the bull.
Rock of Cashel
The Rock of Cashel, also known as Cashel of the Kings and St. Patrick’s Rock, is a historic site located at Cashel, County Tipperary, Ireland.
According to local legends, the Rock of Cashel (a huge stone sitting in front of the castle) originated in the Devil’s Bit, a mountain 20 miles north of Cashel when St. Patrick banished Satan from a cave, resulting in the Rock’s landing in Cashel. After that, Patrick proceeded to chase all the snakes off the island as well. He was one busy dude. Cashel is reputed to be the site of the conversion of the King of Munster by St. Patrick in the 5th century.
The Rock of Cashel was the traditional seat of the kings of Munster for several hundred years prior to the Norman invasion. In 1101, the King of Munster, Muirchertach Ua Briain, donated his fortress on the Rock to the Church. The picturesque complex is one of the most remarkable collections of Celtic art and medieval architecture to be found anywhere in Europe. Few remnants of the early structures survive; the majority of buildings on the current site date from the 12th and 13th centuries.
The oldest and tallest of the buildings is the well-preserved round tower (90 feet tall), dating from c.1100. Its entrance is 12 feet (3.7 m) from the ground, necessitated by a shallow foundation (about 3 feet) typical of round towers. The tower was built using the dry stone method.
Cormac’s Chapel, the chapel of King Cormac Mac Carthaigh, was begun in 1127 and consecrated in 1134. It is a sophisticated structure for the period, with vaulted ceilings and wide arches, drawing on contemporary European architecture and infusing unique native elements. Experts consider the Rock of Cashel is one of the finest examples of Medieval Architecture to survive in the world.
During the Norman Conquest of Ireland in 1168 the town of Cashel saw significant growth and the importance of the Rock of Cashel as a religious center continued. In 1647, during the Irish Confederate Wars, Cashel was sacked by English Parliamentarian troops under Murrough O’Brien, 1st Earl of Inchiquin.
The Irish Confederate troops there were massacred, as were the Catholic clergy, including Theobald Stapleton. Inchiquin’s troops looted or destroyed many important religious artifacts. All told, close to 1,000 people were murdered after the attack.
In 1749, the main cathedral roof was removed by Arthur Price, the Anglican Archbishop of Cashel. Near the base of the hill is a ruined Dominican friary, which was founded by the archbishop in 1243, renovated after a fire in 1480, and dissolved in 1540. The monastic buildings have not survived but the church walls are mostly intact. This castle is very impressive as you drive up to the village. It soars into view like you would imagine of the legendary castle of Camelot, and is amazing to see if you approach from the south side of the town.